A signet ring is a ring with a flat, solid face that was originally used to press a personal seal into hot wax. That face is the point of the design, and it is why a signet looks different to every other ring a man wears. The seal is long gone, the ring stayed, and most men wear one on the little finger of the non-dominant hand.
We design our signets in Australia and cast them by hand in Bali. Here is what the ring means, where it sits and how to size it.
What does a signet ring mean and what does it symbolise?
A signet ring means identity. It was a working object: the flat face carried an engraved mark, and pressing that mark into warm wax closed a letter or a contract and proved who had sent it. The engraving was cut in reverse so the impression came out the right way round. The ring was the signature.
Because the mark stood for a person or a family, signets were handed down, and a crest on the face belonged to a family line. Hence the association with inheritance.
Sealing fell away as written signatures took over. The object survived because the shape was good: a broad face, solid shoulders, a ring that sits flat against the hand and takes knocks without complaining. What it symbolises now is personal. For most men it marks something they want kept near them, an initial, a date, a symbol only they understand, or nothing beyond the fact that they like the weight of it.
Which finger do you wear a signet ring on?
Traditionally, the little finger of the non-dominant hand. For a right-handed man that is the left pinky. The reasoning was practical: the ring stayed clear of the writing hand while a document was sealed, and the pinky keeps a wide face clear of the fingers either side.
That is still the default, and it is not a rule. A signet on the ring finger of the right hand reads well, particularly on a larger hand or with a wider band. The index finger works too, though it puts the face where people look first.
Signet ring, which hand? Either. Wear it on the hand you use less, because the face takes the wear. Silver picks up a patina from that and plenty of men want exactly that. If you would rather it stay clean, use the other hand. One more thing: on the left ring finger a signet can be read as a wedding ring, so move it across if that is not the message.
Can any man wear a signet ring, and is there an age for it?
Yes, and no. There is no age at which a signet becomes appropriate and no background you need to have earned. The idea that signets belong only to inherited crests is a leftover from when the engraving actually proved identity.
What changes with age is usually scale. A slimmer hand suits a narrower face; a broader signet carries better on a larger hand. Choose by proportion. Seeing our signet rings side by side makes the range obvious: the Swallow Signet sits close to the finger, where The Godfather is built to be noticed.
If you have never worn a ring, start with one. A single signet on a bare hand looks deliberate. Three rings on a first attempt rarely do.
What is the point of a signet ring today?
The point is that it is the one men's ring with a face big enough to carry a mark and solid enough to wear daily for decades. No wax, no seal, no obligation to do anything with it. It is a ring you can put something on.
That is why it is so often bought for a reason: a thirtieth, a first child, a father handing one over. It is also a good everyday ring. A flat face takes contact better than a raised setting, so a signet survives wear that would wreck a stone ring. Ours are cast using traditional lost-wax casting in recycled 925 sterling silver or 18k gold vermeil, with a lifetime craftsmanship warranty against manufacturing faults. If you want a ring without a face, the band rings are the quieter option.
Should a signet ring be engraved?
Only if the mark means something to you. An unengraved signet is a complete ring, and a plain polished face is a deliberate look.
If you do engrave, the usual choices are a single initial, a two or three letter monogram, a family crest or a symbol. Keep it simple. The face is small and fine detail loses definition as the ring wears, so initials and clean symbols age best. Engraving is offered on a defined engraving range of pieces, including the Regent Signet.
Before you commit: engraved pieces are final sale. Once the face is cut, the ring cannot be returned or exchanged for change of mind or for sizing. Buying it as a gift and unsure of their size? Engrave later rather than guessing.
What size should a signet ring be, and do signet rings run small?
Signet rings do not run small, but they feel tighter than a plain band in the same size. The face and shoulders make the ring less flexible over the knuckle, so it needs a slightly more generous fit to pass over and then sit still. A ring you can force on is a ring you will struggle to remove.
Check two things. It should clear your knuckle with a firm push and a little resistance coming off, not a fight. And the face should sit flat on top of the finger. If it is loose, the weight of the face rolls it to one side and wears the shoulders unevenly.
Do not size from string, a paper chart, or a ring you own in a different profile. Use the Ring Sizer Kit: $5 AUD plus shipping, with $20 store credit included. It is cast in stainless steel from our actual ring moulds and marked with our sizes, so you try on the real size. It also carries our Perfect Fit Guarantee, so if you size with the kit and still need a different size, the exchange is free within 30 days. Many of our rings are made to order, with 4-6 weeks in production, and that is time you do not want to spend twice.
Silver or gold signet ring, which should I choose?
Choose silver if you want a ring that takes on a patina and reads quieter, gold if you want warmth and more presence. Match it to what you already wear rather than to a rule.
Our silver is recycled 925 sterling. Bright when new, it darkens slightly in the recesses over time and polishes back whenever you want. It is the easier first ring because it draws less attention.
Our gold is 18k gold vermeil, a thick layer of 18k gold over solid recycled sterling silver, not plating over base metal. Vermeil asks for more care, because the gold is a surface layer. We cover that layer for 6 months under warranty, and after that there is a professional replating service for $99 AUD, so a vermeil ring you wear hard can be brought back rather than retired. There is a longer explanation in our guide to gold vermeil.
Short version: if this is your only ring and you wear a silver watch, go silver. If you already wear gold chains, go gold.
How do you care for a signet ring?
Take it off before water, chemicals and anything abrasive, then wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing.
Keep it away from chlorine, saltwater, perfume, aftershave, sunscreen and cleaning products. Those are what damage jewellery, and they are also excluded from our warranty, because chemical damage is not a manufacturing fault.
Store it dry and separate from other pieces. Silver comes back with an occasional polish using a jewellery cloth. Vermeil should only be wiped, never polished or dipped in silver cleaner, because both strip gold. Fuller instructions are in our guide to silver tarnishing and care.
Related guides
Frequently asked questions
What does a signet ring symbolise?
Identity. The flat face once carried an engraved mark that was pressed into wax to seal and authenticate a document, so the ring worked as a signature. Because the mark often belonged to a family, signets came to symbolise lineage. Today a signet usually marks something personal rather than anything formal.
What finger does a signet ring go on?
Traditionally the little finger of the non-dominant hand, so the left pinky for a right-handed man. That is still the most common placement. The ring finger of the right hand also works, especially with a wider band. The index finger is a bolder choice, because the face sits where people look first.
Can I wear a signet ring on my right hand?
Yes. Left or right is preference. The traditional logic is to wear it on the hand you use less, so the face picks up fewer marks. If you are left-handed, the right pinky is the equivalent placement. Avoid the left ring finger if you do not want it read as a wedding ring.
Do you have to have a family crest to wear a signet ring?
No. The crest tradition comes from a time when the engraving actually proved identity. Any man can wear a signet, with a crest, with initials, with a symbol, or with a plain polished face. A blank signet is a complete ring and a common choice.
Should I get my signet ring engraved?
Only if the mark means something to you. Initials, a monogram, a crest or a simple symbol all work, while fine detail loses definition as the ring wears. Engraving is available on a defined engraving range of pieces. Engraved pieces are final sale, so confirm your size before you engrave.
Do signet rings run small?
No, but they feel tighter than a plain band in the same size, because the face and shoulders make the ring less flexible over the knuckle. Size it so it clears the knuckle with a firm push and sits flat on top of the finger without rolling. Our Ring Sizer Kit is the reliable way to check.
How do I stop my signet ring tarnishing?
Wipe it with a soft cloth after wearing, store it dry and separate from other pieces, and keep it away from chlorine, saltwater, perfume and sunscreen. Silver polishes back with a jewellery cloth. Never use a polishing cloth or silver dip on gold vermeil, because both remove gold.